Are Drying Alcohols Wrecking Your Hair?

As a dermatologist, I see many patients struggle with dry, brittle, or damaged hair without realizing that some of their hair care products could be to blame. One of the most common culprits is drying alcohols, like isopropyl alcohol, found in many shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. While useful in formulations, these alcohols can strip the hair of moisture, irritate the scalp, and lead to long-term damage.

If you're noticing dullness, breakage, or scalp issues, it might be time to examine your product labels. Let’s explore why drying alcohols are used, their downsides, and how to avoid them for healthier, stronger hair.

What Is Isopropyl Alcohol and Why Is It Used in Hair Care?

Isopropyl alcohol is a fast-evaporating, short-chain alcohol often used in hair care for specific purposes:

• Dissolving Ingredients: Isopropyl alcohol helps oils and other ingredients mix well, ensuring a consistent product. Without it, some formulas might separate, reducing their effectiveness.
• Quick Drying: Products like hairsprays, mousses, and styling gels rely on isopropyl alcohol to dry quickly, leaving no sticky residue. This makes it ideal for holding hairstyles in place or creating a weightless finish.
• Preservation: Isopropyl alcohol prevents the growth of bacteria and mold in products, extending their shelf life. This is particularly useful in water-based formulations.

Despite these benefits, the long-term effects of isopropyl alcohol on hair can be harmful, especially with frequent use.

The Downsides of Drying Alcohols

1. Strips Natural Oils

Drying alcohols, like isopropyl alcohol, remove the natural oils (sebum) that protect the hair and scalp. Sebum keeps the hair hydrated, smooth, and shiny, so stripping it away can leave your hair feeling dry and brittle. This is especially problematic for curly or textured hair, which is already more prone to dryness and frizz.

2. Causes Scalp Irritation

Drying alcohols can irritate sensitive scalp skin. For those with pre-existing conditions like eczema or psoriasis, these alcohols may worsen symptoms, causing redness, flaking, and itching. Even if you don’t have a sensitive scalp, regular use can disrupt your skin’s natural barrier, leading to irritation over time.

3. Weakens the Hair Shaft

When drying alcohols remove moisture from the hair, the cuticle (the protective outer layer) becomes weak and porous. This makes your hair more prone to breakage, split ends, and thinning. Over time, moisture loss can leave your hair lacking elasticity, making it more vulnerable to damage.

4. Dulls Hair’s Natural Shine

Healthy hair reflects light, giving it a shiny, vibrant look. Drying alcohols roughen the hair cuticle, causing light to scatter instead of reflect. Even with regular conditioning treatments, this can leave your hair looking dull and lifeless.

5. Fades Color-Treated Hair

If you’ve invested in hair coloring or bleaching, drying alcohols can speed up color fading. These alcohols open the hair cuticle, allowing color pigments to escape more quickly. They also dehydrate the hair, dulling the vibrancy of your color and requiring more frequent touch-ups.

6. Leads to Product Buildup

Styling products like hairsprays and mousses often rely on drying alcohols for their fast-drying properties. However, repeated use can cause buildup on the scalp and hair strands, which can be challenging to wash away. This buildup can lead to chronic dryness and a heavy, greasy feeling on your hair and scalp.

7. Causes Long-Term Damage

While occasional use of drying alcohols may not cause noticeable harm, regular use can lead to significant damage. Over time, your hair can become thinner, drier, and more prone to breakage. Scalp health may also suffer, leading to itchiness, flaking, and discomfort.

Not All Alcohols Are Harmful

Not all alcohols are bad for your hair. Fatty alcohols, like cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, are actually beneficial. These long-chain alcohols, derived from natural sources like coconut or palm oil, are commonly used in conditioners and creams to smooth and moisturize hair. They act as emollients, locking in moisture and improving hair’s manageability without causing dryness.

How to Spot Harmful Alcohols in Hair Products

When reading labels, it’s essential to identify which alcohols are harmful and which are beneficial. Look for drying alcohols, such as:

• Isopropyl alcohol
• Ethanol
• SD alcohol
• Denatured alcohol
• Propanol
• Benzyl alcohol (when listed high on the ingredient list)

On the other hand, fatty alcohols like cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol can be trusted as hair-friendly ingredients.

Who Should Avoid Products with Drying Alcohols?

Certain groups are particularly vulnerable to the effects of drying alcohols. These include:

1. People with Dry or Curly Hair: Dry and curly hair types are naturally more prone to moisture loss, so drying alcohols can exacerbate dryness and frizz.
2. Those with Color-Treated or Bleached Hair: Alcohols can speed up color fading and weaken already fragile hair, making them a poor choice for maintaining treated hair.
3. Individuals with Scalp Sensitivities: Drying alcohols can irritate sensitive scalps, worsening conditions like eczema or psoriasis.
4. People Who Use Heat Styling Tools Frequently: Heat styling compounds the drying effects of alcohol, leading to increased hair damage.

Switch to Alcohol-Free Hair Care

For healthier hair and scalp, consider switching to alcohol-free hair care products. These products avoid drying alcohols and focus on nourishing, hydrating ingredients to protect your hair.

One excellent example is the MDhair line of scalp treatment serums and shampoos. These products are formulated without drying alcohols and contain ingredients like:

1. Saw palmetto: A natural DHT blocker that supports hair growth.
2. Niacinamide: Improves scalp hydration and strengthens the hair barrier.
3. Biotin: Helps promote stronger, healthier hair.

Switching to alcohol-free products not only prevents the adverse effects of drying alcohols but also provides long-term benefits for your hair and scalp health.

Shop

MDhair Regrowth Serum (Alcohol-Free)
MDhair Restore Serum (Alcohol-Free)
MDhair Regrowth Shampoo (Alcohol-Free)
​​​​​​MDhair Restore Shampoo (Alcohol-Free)

FAQs About Alcohols in Hair Care

What is the main problem with isopropyl alcohol in hair care?

Isopropyl alcohol strips the hair and scalp of their natural oils, leaving them dry and brittle. It can also weaken the hair cuticle, making your hair more prone to breakage.

Are all alcohols bad for your hair?

No, fatty alcohols like cetyl and stearyl alcohol are actually suitable for your hair. They help moisturize, soften, and smooth hair, making them excellent conditioner ingredients.

How can I tell if a product contains drying alcohol?

Look for terms like "isopropyl alcohol," "ethanol," or "SD alcohol" on the ingredient list. If these alcohols are listed high on the label, the product may cause dryness or damage.

Can drying alcohols damage color-treated hair?

Yes, drying alcohols can cause color-treated hair to fade faster and lose its vibrancy. They open the hair cuticle and allow color pigments to escape, dulling your hair’s look.

Who should avoid products with drying alcohols?

People with dry, curly, or color-treated hair should avoid drying alcohols, as these hair types are more vulnerable to moisture loss. Sensitive scalps can also react negatively to these ingredients, leading to irritation.

How can I repair damage caused by drying alcohols?

Use deep-conditioning treatments and hydrating hair masks to restore moisture. Incorporate alcohol-free products and nourishing oils, like argan or coconut oil, into your routine to rebuild your hair’s strength.

Are alcohol-free products better for everyone?

Yes, alcohol-free products are especially beneficial for those with dry or damaged hair and sensitive scalps. They provide hydration and nourishment without causing dryness or irritation.

What are some alcohol-free product options?

MDhair scalp treatment serums and shampoos are excellent alcohol-free alternatives. These products focus on improving scalp health and promoting hair growth with nourishing, active ingredients.

Why are alcohols used in styling products?

Alcohols are used in styling products for their quick-drying properties and ability to create a smooth, lightweight finish. They are commonly found in hairsprays, mousses, and gels for long-lasting hold.

Can I use products with drying alcohols occasionally?

Yes, occasional use is unlikely to cause major harm. However, frequent use can lead to long-term damage, so it’s better to opt for alcohol-free alternatives whenever possible.